Mothers of Lyon were those who cooked for the bourgeois families of the region but who opened their own restaurants after their emancipation. They were known for working with the lowest cuts, a way of not throwing anything away and of making refined dishes.
18th century
The Emergence of Exceptional Culinary Artisans
In the 18th century, Lyon saw the emergence of exceptional women, the “Mère Lyonnaises”, formerly cooks in the service of bourgeois families. Their culinary ingenuity was evident in their ability to sublimate the meanest cuts, transforming the simplest ingredients into exquisite dishes. The drive towards emancipation led them to open their own restaurants. Among them, figures such as Mère Brigousse in Charpennes and Mère Guy near La Mulatière in 1759 illuminated the Lyon gastronomic scene.
The Interwar Period
Culinary Metamorphosis Period
The interwar period was a time of economic upheaval, forcing wealthy families to part with their cooks. Faced with this adversity, these women freed themselves and opened their establishments. The "Mères Lyonnaises" became the undisputed symbols of local gastronomy, advocating a cuisine rooted in local products.
Elegance Sublimating Rusticity
Initially perceived as a rustic and convivial cuisine, that of the "Mères Lyonnaises" evolved towards grace and finesse. Their restaurants became places of convergence, attracting a varied clientele: workers, bourgeois, large industrialists. All converged to taste traditional dishes in a convivial atmosphere. These dishes, once modest, now took on a gastronomic aura.
A Timeless Culinary Heritage
The recipes, passed down from generation to generation, became emblematic, raising modest dishes to the rank of delights appreciated by discerning palates. The quenelle, the sapeur's apron and many others carved out a place of choice for themselves on these tables where culinary excellence and human warmth were combined.
Mother Vittet
Originally from Isère, Alice Vittet settled in Lyon after the Great War. She started out as a cheesemaker before opening shops with her husband Henry. In 1945, they moved to run the Café du Marché on Rue de la Bourse. After her husband died, she acquired an establishment at 26 Cours de Verdun in 1957, transforming the place into a busy brasserie, open 24 hours a day. Later, her son Jean renamed the place “La Mère Vittet” in 1981.
Mother Brazier
Eugénie Brazier is arguably one of the most famous “Mère Lyonnaises.” She was the first woman to earn three Michelin stars for two different restaurants, a remarkable feat in the world of gastronomy. She ran the restaurant La Mère Brazier, where she excelled in preparing iconic dishes of Lyon cuisine, such as Bresse half-mourning chicken and pike quenelles.
Mother Guy
Another great figure of the “Mère Lyonnaises” is Mère Guy, whose real name was Marie-Antoinette Guy. She opened her restaurant in 1759 and is known for introducing the people of Lyon to traditional dishes, including calf’s head, sapper’s apron and quenelles.
Mother Bizolon
Clotilde Bizolon, affectionately known as “la Maman des Poilus,” was one of the most revered Lyon mothers of her time. During the First World War, she offered free meals to returning soldiers at the Lyon Perrache train station, an initiative that comforted the combatants after the loss of her husband and son at the start of the conflict.
With the help of friends, she opened an improvised outdoor refreshment bar to serve wine and coffee to soldiers returning from the trenches. Thanks to the support of the people of Lyon and Mayor Édouard Herriot, this refreshment bar was quickly transformed into a permanent establishment. After the war, she worked in a bouchon, but had to reopen her refreshment bar when the Second World War broke out.
His contribution was honored by the Legion of Honor in 1925. Today, a street bears his name in the second arrondissement of Lyon, a testament to the recognition of his dedication and generosity towards the soldiers and the Lyon community.
Mother Fillioux
Marie Fillioux, nicknamed "La Mère Fillioux", was another renowned cook from Lyon. She ran a restaurant where she prepared traditional dishes, including the famous quenelle and other regional specialties appreciated by locals and visitors to the city.
She was Eugénie Brazier's mentor, even sharing the recipe for her artichoke hearts with foie gras with her. The restaurant La Belle Époque, where she worked, was destroyed after the war, but a commemorative plaque commemorates its original location at 73 rue Duquesne.
Mother Richard
Renée Richard (1930-2014) left her mark on Les Halles de Lyon as an iconic trader. She held the monopoly on the sale of small goat cheeses in Lyon, which became popular with eminent chefs such as Georges Blanc in Vonnas, Gérard Nandron in Lyon, Fauvin in Romanèche-Thorins and also with the illustrious Monsieur Paul in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or. Affectionately nicknamed "La Mère Richard" by Paul Bocuse, she was consecrated by the latter, the first chef to mention on his menu the name of the creator of perfectly matured Saint-Marcellin, Mâconnais cheeses, Vacherin, Morbier, Laguiole, Salers, farmhouse Saint-Nectaire, legendary Comté and alpine Beaufort.
A pioneer, Renée Richard was the first to put her name on the packaging of her cheeses, thus helping to promote the excellence of products from the Rhône-Alpes region.
Mother Lea
Léa Bidaut (17 May 1908 – 30 May 1996), known as Mère Léa, was a French chef and Mère lyonnaise. A renowned exponent of Lyonnaise cuisine, she began her career in 1927 working as a teenager for wealthy individuals in her hometown, such as the industrialist Schneider family, before moving to Lyon. From 1938, Bidaut ran her first restaurant, later known as "Daniel et Denise", on Rue Tupine, Place Bellecour in Lyon, for four years. In 1943, she opened her restaurant "La Voûte chez Léa" nearby, which earned a Michelin star.
She was known for roaming the stalls of the Saint-Antoine market on the quayside next to her restaurant, pushing her cart bearing a sign that read, "Attention, weak woman but strong mouth." She completed her market tours spending almost no money, and she did wonders with very little, especially with her asparagus tips.
She joined Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises in 1978. The restaurant was taken over in January 1980 by chef Philippe Rabatel, and she retired in 1981. In 2013, the restaurant was sold to Christian Morel, Michelin-starred chef Christian Têtedoie, and sommelier Laurence Ginet. As of 2022, the restaurant is still in operation.
A pioneer, Renée Richard was the first to put her name on the packaging of her cheeses, thus helping to promote the excellence of products from the Rhône-Alpes region.
These talented women left a lasting legacy in the world of Lyonnaise gastronomy and are still celebrated for their contribution to the preservation and popularization of the region's traditional dishes.